Category Archives: How-To

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Rough Cut Techniques

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Cutting concrete pavers is not difficult, but it does require special equipment and a certain level of skill. There are several methods for cutting. Read the article: Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview for more general information. This article focuses on two methods which leave a rough edge to the cut paver:

  1. Hammer and Chisel
  2. Block or Paver Splitter

1.   Hammer & Chisel

Hammer & chisel is the simplest and most inexpensive method for a few cuts. Simply score the paver along a cut line using sharp but light blows. By repeatedly tapping along the same cut line, the paver will eventually snap leaving a rough cut.

Advantages: Inexpensive, rough finish, ease of use.

Disadvantages: Slow, non-precise rough cuts, possible breakage.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Rough Cut Techniques Cutting Concrete Pavers: Rough Cut Techniques

2.  Block Splitter

A block splitter is basically a large mechanical chisel or guillotine cutter. By using the leverage of a long handle, you can easily “snap” a paver, wall block or wall cap leaving a rough finished edge.  Block splitters generally can snap material up to 6” thick. This is a great tool to use for creating corner wall blocks or caps where the cut side will be visible. Most contractors will use splitters when building walls to help create finished corner pieces.

Advantages: Ease of use, inexpensive to rent, attractive finishing tool, can cut on project.

Disadvantages: Non-precision cutting, must cut at least 2” to get “straight” cut.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Rough Cut Techniques Cutting Concrete Pavers: Rough Cut Techniques

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Smooth Cut Techniques

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Cutting concrete pavers is not difficult, but it does require special equipment and a certain level of skill. There are several methods for cutting. Read the article: Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview for more general information.

This article focuses on four methods which leave a smooth edge to the cut paver:

  1. Circular Saw with Masonry or Diamond Blade

  2. Table Concrete Saw

  3. Gas Powered Cut Off Saw

  4. Grinder with Masonry or Diamond Wheel.

1.   Circular Saw

A circular saw will make cutting more than a few pavers much easier than rough cut techniques. Note you will need to equip your saw with a masonry or diamond blade. Start by making a pass with the saw at ½” depth. Make additional passes increasing the depth of the blade each time.

Advantages: Inexpensive, faster than hammer/chisel, tool readily available, more precise.

Disadvantages: Slow for large amount of cuts, only works on 2” or thinner material.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Smooth Cut Techniques Cutting Concrete Pavers: Smooth Cut Techniques

2.   Table Saw

If the job requires a lot of cutting, consider renting a table top concrete saw. Concrete saws are readily available at most rental facilities for approximately $70-80 per day. Tabletop concrete saws make precise, fast cuts for most pavers and wall caps. Most saws are also equipped with water pumps which will spray the paver with water while making the cut to help control dust and prolong the life of the diamond blade. Cutting can be done without using water, but will be quite dusty if water is not used.

Advantages: Fast, easy to use, precise cutting, minimizes dust.

Disadvantages: Need to rent, usually only good for 3” thick cuts or less, can be messy, need electrical hook up.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Smooth Cut Techniques3.  Gas Powered Cut Off Saw:

A gas powered cut off saw will easily cut through any size paver, wall block or wall cap. While this powerful saw is fairly easy to use, it is somewhat heavy and takes a strong back if doing more than a few cuts. Because of the weight, holding the saw along the desired cut line can be difficult making bad cuts which require recutting common. Cut off saws can be difficult to start, so you should always have the rental company test it to ensure it works before leaving the store.

Advantages: Portable, powerful, maximum cutting depth, great for “in place” cutting.

Disadvantages: Loud and dusty, heavy, higher percentage of bad cuts, can be hard to start.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Smooth Cut Techniques

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Smooth Cut Techniques

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview

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Cutting Concrete Pavers: OverviewCutting concrete pavers is not difficult, but it does require special equipment and a certain level of skill. One or two cuts can be done easily with a hammer and chisel or a circular saw equipped with a masonry or diamond blade. If a large amount of cutting is required it may be easier to rent a more powerful piece of equipment such as a table top concrete saw or a gas powered cut off saw. This specialized cutting equipment can be rented by the day or week at most rental centers.

Types of Cutting Tools:

  1. Hammer/Mallet and Chisel/Brickset

  2. Block or Paver Splitter

  3. Circular Saw with Masonry or Diamond Blade

  4. Table Concrete Saw

  5. Gas Powered Cut Off Saw

  6. Grinder with Masonry or Diamond Wheel

For more information on the differences between these tools, see the articles on Cutting: Rough Cut or Cuttting: Smooth Cut.

When using power equipment, you should always take safety into consideration and the use of safety equipment is a must. Safety equipment includes:

  • Safety Glasses

  • Hearing Protection

  • Dust Mask

  • Gloves

Finishing Technique:

Note that most cutting will leave a very clean cut line. Most pavers have a tumbled or chamfered edge and the clean cut line will be very noticeable. Using a hammer or scrap piece of paver, you can “chink” or tumble the edge to give a more finished look. Roughing up this clean edge will make a huge difference in the overall appearance of the project.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview

Disposal, Dust and Advice:

  • Cutting pavers can be a very dusty, messy experience. You may want to set up a cutting area away from the project and your house to keep dust cleanup as easy as possible. Also take notice of which way the wind is blowing and how the dust will affect your neighbors.

  • Disposal of the scrap concrete left after cutting can be a challenge. In Phoenixville, Cedar Hollow Recycling will take your concrete waste and recycle it for other uses for a nominal charge. If you are not in the Phoenixville area, check your local phone book for waste disposal.

  • If a lot of cutting is necessary for your project, make sure to order extra material (5-15% is typical).  Please note that not all materials are returnable.  Understand what you distributors policy is on returns before ordering material.  If the material is non-returnable, you may want to under order and pick up more material when needed. Be careful…some special order colors or slow moving product may not be readily available and you may have to wait if you need more material.

  • For curved cuts, consider using a border material. Most projects (especially curved walkways or patios) will look much more finished when full pieces are used as a border.

Cutting Concrete Pavers: Overview

Creating a Level Backyard with Retaining Walls

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In the Delaware Valley, uneven terrain is quite common. A sloping backyard makes creating a flat area for outdoor activities such as games, picnics, or just “hanging out” challenging. Retaining walls offer a practical solution to this problem.

If the backyard slopes down and away (see diagram below), the retaining wall is built at the point where you want the yard to stop.  The area between the slope of the yard and the wall is filled in and becomes yard.  On the other side of the wall, the slope can remain on the ground and can be leveled to create another lower flat area.

Retaining Wall Down 20130120 150x150 Creating a Level Backyard with Retaining Walls

If the backyard slopes up (see diagram below), the retaining wall is still built at the point where you want the flat yard to stop; but, in this case, excess ground is removed.  The area behind the wall is then filled in.

Retaining Wall Up 20130120 150x150 Creating a Level Backyard with Retaining Walls

In both cases, the wall has significant retaining responsibilities: The distance equal to two times the height of the wall behind the wall is the area exerting pressure on the wall.  So, if the wall is three feet high, six feet of ground is being retained.  If the wall is five feet high, retention is 10 feet of ground.

Products vary in their ability to retain.  The maximum height that can be built without special engineering with traditional retaining wall blocks is four feet. This type of block will generally weigh between 60 and 90 pounds each and create a wall approximately 12 inches thick.  Examples include CST Versa Lok block, EP Henry Mesa and Diamond Pro block, Techo-Bloc Suprema.  A few specialty products exist which are significantly larger and heavier and can build substantially larger walls, e.g., Techo Bloc Monumental.

Retaining walls designed to reshape the contour of an outdoor living area have many technical requirements.  Do not undertake this type of project for walls over 3 feet high without using a contractor with specialized expertise.

Sealing Your Paver Patio

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To seal or not to seal your paver patio is a key decision affecting both the look and the maintenance of your outdoor living space.

Satin Look 150x150 Sealing Your Paver Patio

Note the distinct difference between sealed - unsealed patio pavers.

In terms of “look,” the range of options for sealing pavers has grown dramatically over the last two years. You can choose a “wet look,” a “color enhancing look,” an “invisible look.” Paver sealers can be water or solvent based. The look can be matte or gloss. Some sealers for pavers look great after one coat; some explicitly require a second application. There are pavers sealers that stabilize the sand in the joints of the pavers at the same time as enhancing the finish. Most dealers have displays or samples to show you what look each paver sealer will produce. There are no wrong answers here, pick what you like!

However, once you have committed to sealing your patio, sidewalk, pool deck or other outdoor paver area, you are also making a commitment to ongoing maintenance. A sealed surface can look great and require no re-sealing for several years. But the longevity of a sealed paver look can vary dramatically. How long the sealer will last depends on the use and the environment. Intense sun, salt water, heavy traffic, even damaging foliage can degrade the sealed look and force a shorter timeframe between re-sealing.

Some helpful hints (reminders) to consider when you choose to seal your pavers:

• Never seal pavers that still have visible efflorescence. This film is a natural occurrence which is part of the curing process for concrete pavers. If you seal before efflorescence has either worn off or been cleaned off, you are locking it into your pavers forever.

• Make sure you know how the sealer should be applied. There are a variety of application techniques. Some require very expensive, specialized equipment. If doing this yourself, pick something designed for DIY not something that requires a significant investment in application tools.

• Read the instructions. Check temperature requirements and check the weather forecast. Sealers do not apply correctly if it is too hot or cold or if they get wet too soon.

Selecting a Hardscaping Contractor

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You have decided to invest in an outdoor hardscaping project. After careful consideration, you have decided to hire a professional to implement it. Now you must pick the specific contractor. The hardscaping industry offers a huge selection of contractors, but not all of them are qualified to do your specific project. Unfortunately, it is easy to make a poor choice; so, the selection process is critical.

You will need to make two decisions:

(1) Who should bid? and

(2) Which of the bidders will you hire?

Obviously, one of the contractors who bids on your job is going to be the one you hire. So, you need a great “short list.” You should be looking for three contractors to bid on your job. Three bids allow you to determine high, low and average cost. More than three is unfair to the contractors as they will bid at no cost to you but at significant cost to themselves. And more than three bids is also unnecessarily complicated for you as three bids will provide more than enough information for you to make a good decision.

Factors to consider in selecting the short list of bidders:

1. Understand the value of a professional hardscaping contractor. You may know a good general contractor who built your house or remodeled your basement; but, unless he has explicitly implemented hardscaping projects, he is not a hardscaping contractor. If you have a lot of confidence in a specific GC and are willing to pay a premium for his management skills, then you can consider hiring the GC to find and manage a good subcontractor. In this scenario, you do not need a bid process as you are selecting a GC based on past experience and personal confidence.

You may have a great landscaper who mows your lawn, fertilizes, plants, trims or prunes; but, unless he has explicitly implemented hardscaping projects, he is not a hardscaping contractor. If you are willing to reduce your costs by allowing a landscaper to learn on the job, and if you have confidence in the landscaper’s commitment to finding out the right way to do the work, then consider your landscaper.

However, most often, you will be looking for a professional hardscaping contractor who has the experience to deliver the full set of responsibilities a successful project requires.

2. Get a referral / reference. Each contractor on your short list should have good references. If relying on a friend or neighbor for a referral, make sure the project that inspired the referral was completed prior to the last winter, i.e., the projects needs to have survived one freeze-thaw cycle intact. A project can look great the month after completion and not so good a year later. Freeze-thaw will expose errors made below the surface in the sub-base and base of the project.

You may also use a manufacturer’s authorized contractor program to obtain recommendations. This is particularly useful if you think you know what brand of products you plan to use. This list is usually accessible on the manufacturer’s website or by completing a form on the website from which the manufacturer will mail you a list.

Dealers vary in how they provide referrals. If relying on a dealer reference, make sure the dealer screens his referral list. At Woodward Landscape Supply, we check out the work of the contractors we recommend, making sure they follow generally accepted hardscaping standards. We also monitor customer feedback and remove contractors from our list if valid complaints come to our attention.

3. Look for local coverage. Make sure that the commute to your property is financially attractive for the contractors you pick. If too far, the cost of getting their crew to and from your location can make the project unnecessarily expensive.

4. Confirm specific expertise. During your initial meeting with each name on your short list, make sure they have the expertise you need for all elements of your project. For example, pool decks have some unique below-ground issues; masonry projects such as fireplaces require unique skills and tools; flagstone has very different installation characteristics than manufactured pavers. If you know you are going to need a special skill, make sure you ask if the contractor has that experience. If the special element is a small portion of the project, it is reasonable for a contractor to subcontract that element. If the specialty skill is a major portion of the project, it should also be a major portion of the contractor’s portfolio.

5. Check out timing. Is the contractor going to be available to do the work on a schedule that meets your needs

Using these guidelines, you will pick your short list, meet with each contractor to discuss the project and await your bids. Once you have the bids in hand, the following factors should be considered in making your final decision:

1. Cost. If one bid is especially low, beware! Make sure you understand what that contractor is not including. If one bid is especially high, find out why. Did that contractor consider something relevant that the others missed. Exceptionally low bids usually have left out something really important.

2. Warranty. Proposal should offer a minimum three-year warranty.

3. Insurance. Proof of liability insurance should be a requirement. Incidents are rare in this industry, but accidents do happen.

4. Material Selection. The proposal / contract can be written in one of two ways:

a. If you have already selected the materials, the agreement should explicitly identify your choices.

b. If you have not yet finalized your choices, the agreement will assume a basic product and final pricing must be adjusted to reflect your ultimate product choice. The contract should both require you to make your final choice within a specific timeframe and provide you an understanding of what type of material is assumed in the baseline proposal.

5. Construction Issues. The agreement should explicitly cover the contractor’s responsibility for removing and disposing of any excess excavated material as well as his responsibility for final clean up and ground repair. If you expect finishing landscaping, the agreement should cover that as well.

6. Comfort. Finally, is the contractor a person whom you feel comfortable having work at your home unsupervised? This is a very individual and subjective issue, but you will develop rapport and trust with some individuals and not with others. You need to consider your comfort level in making your final decision.

Building a Wall Step 3: Contruction

Building a Wall Step 3: Construction.

(Deciding Who Should Build Your Wall)

When the time comes to actually build the wall you have been planning, the most critical question is should you try to build it yourself…or not. Several factors should be considered in evaluating whether or not you should attempt this as a do-it-yourself project.

  • Technical difficulty
  • Risks or impact of making serious mistakes
  • Availability of time to work on the wall
  • Personal physical fitness
  • Enjoyment
  • Urgency of schedule to finish the wall
  • Access to needed tools and equipment
  • Cost
New Picture 150x150 Building a Wall Step 3: Contruction

Assessing Difficulty and Risk

This diagram charts the relative technical difficulty and cost of mistakes of major hardscaping projects, including wall (shown in red) projects. Technical difficulty is based on knowledge needed to execute the project, complexity of the construction steps, breadth of tools and equipment needed, physical demands on the construction crew, and the need for specialists and/or permits during the construction process. In general, the higher the wall and the more stuff behind the wall, the greater the technical difficulty. The cost of mistakes refers to the kinds of problems that incorrect construction can produce. In the case of a sidewalk, a typical mistake will result in poor grading, puddles forming, and ultimately the need to redo the work. Physical harm is unlikely. In the case of a wall, the worst case scenario is that it falls down and destroys what it lands on. The cost is not only reconstruction but liability for injury and damage.

Assuming you can convince yourself that you are willing to deal with the technical and liability risks, the next thing to consider is timing. Do you have big chunks of free time to work on this project? Is there a deadline for completion (e.g., your daughter’s graduation party) that is going to put a lot of pressure on you to find time you don’t have or work in unpleasant weather conditions.

Then you should consider your health. Building a wall, even a garden wall, is a lot of heavy lifting. How’s your back? Do you really enjoy this type of physical effort and are you in condition to do this work without injury?

Finally, consider the costs. While it will definitely cost more out-of-pocket dollars to hire a contractor, there are hidden costs to doing this work yourself, including renting excavation equipment, buying or renting the special tools you need (e.g., laser levels), and potentially the cost of hiring a contractor to fix your mistakes.

A simple, flat garden wall is a doable project for almost anyone. But, once you introduce grade changes, products with complex installation steps, large heavy wall materials, or heights above 18″, it is time to look for a contractor. Our website offers a list of referrals for your assistance in finding qualified help.

Building a Wall Step 2: Look & Feel

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Building a Wall Step 2:  Look & Feel
(Deciding How You Want the Wall to Appear)
Regardless of the type of wall you want to build, you will find a huge selection of styles and colors in wall material. Manufactured wall block falls into two categories:  standard finish and aged finish.  “Standard” products are characterized by square corners and a more consistent finish.  “Aged” products are manufactured to look (obviously) old.  Manufacturers may call this look antiqued, weathered, tumbled, or aged.

Standard finish products may be flat, split-faced, rounded, chiseled, or feature some type of beveling — all of these approaches produce a different visual impact in the final wall. Aged finishes also have a huge variety of looks. Given the significant varience in the visual results of different manufacturing processes, it is extremely important for you to see a sample wall before selecting the product. Although looking at an individual piece may help, you really want to see at least a small section of wall before selecting the finish you want.

versalok 150x150 Building a Wall Step 2: Look & Feel

Individual Vera-Lok Weathered and Standard Blocks

Mmncmyk 150x150 Building a Wall Step 2: Look & Feel

Tiered Wall Resulting from Standard Finish Block

Versa Lok Mosaic Wea 150x150 Building a Wall Step 2: Look & Feel

Garden Wall from Versa-Lok Weathered Block

As an example, the picture above shows a single Versa-Lok block with both a standard and a aged finish.  The next two pictures show wall built from each ofthese two finishes.

See the difference!

There are many factors in pricing the construction of a wall.  Looking only at the wall material itself, two pricing rules generally apply:  (1) the larger the individual wall block, the less the wall material will cost per square foot. (2) for a given shape, aged walls cost more than standard walls.

After selecting finish, the other major element of look and feel is color. Every mnufacturer offers a selection of colors and if you consider the color pallet of the industry, you will find an amazing selection.  Although you will find a few solid colors among your options, most products will be blends of two colors.  More recently, manufacturers are beginning to introduce tri-color blends.  It is not necessary to limit yourself to one color.  Although not as common as a homogenous wall, colors can be mixed.

Never select a color from a catalog or a website.  Wall materials are not glossy, they have a natural finish and it is extremely unusual to find a picture that looks a lot like the real thing.  See a sample or, ideally, see several.  Usually, color has no impact on price unless you want a special order color.

In additional to manufactured products, wall can be built from natural stone. Natural stone is significantly more inconsistent in texture and color.  It’s beauty is that inconsistency.  The price range for natural stone is huge.  Generally, the labor for natural stone will be higher than for a manufactured product.

One of the newest trends in wall products is manufactured products that simulate natural stone.  For an example, consider Techo-Bloc’s Muro Naturale.

When you have finished your look and feel investigation, you will have selected a product or short list of products that will define the texture, finish, color and, as a result, the overall impression that your wall will make.

Building a Wall Step 1: Structure

Building a Wall Step 1:  Determining Structure
(Understanding What Kind of Wall You are Trying to Build)

You want to build a wall to enhance your outdoor living environment.  The first step is to determine the structural needs of your wall.  It is the structure that dictates your construction technique, what construction materials and tools you need, and, perhaps most importantly to your finished project, what wall products you can successfully use.  The appearance of the finished wall will be determined by the wall material you choose.  The issue of appearance, i.e., style, texture and color for your finished wall, will be covered in a separate article:  Building a Wall Step 2: Look and Feel.

There are three major types of wall structures:
1. garden walls
2. retaining walls
3. sitting walls.
The fundamental differences in these walls are their height and what is behind them.

A Garden Wall refers to a wall designed to define an outdoor area such as a flower bed, a tree, a mailbox, a lamp post.   No higher than 18 inches, a garden wall generally holds in soil and may be topped off with mulch or decorative stone.  With a garden wall, you create a raised area that becomes a softscaping environment filled with whatever you want to create the visual impact you envision.  Options to complete your garden wall project include plants, boulders, statuary, fountains, birdbaths.

EPH Pond Wall 150x150 Building a Wall Step 1: Structure

Garden Wall around Pond

Literally any wall block or natural stone can be used as the garden wall has the least demanding structure.  Although any wall product is technically acceptable, the most common materials are small wall blocks or stacked natural stone.  Manufactured garden wall blocks include Coventry Garden Wall from EP Henry and Manchester from Techo-Bloc.  Most garden wall products are approximately 4” high x 12” long x 8” deep.   There may be a lip on the back of the block to lock each course as you build it up but many are simply stacked and held in place by weight.  Garden Wall products can not be safely used in either retaining wall or sitting wall applications. If the garden wall requires a greater height than 18 inches, products classified as garden walls can not be used as designed and you must use retaining wall construction techniques.

Retaining Walls are structures with the specific requirement of holding back large amounts of soil and/or rock.  Retaining walls are 2 feet up to literally as high as needed.  Commercial walls, e.g., the walls you see along the highway or around a shopping center, can be amazing heights.  Situations where a residential retaining wall (also known as an SRW) is necessary include:

  • building a wall to eliminate a sloped back yard and create a large flat yard for outdoor activities or a patio or other outdoor use
  • building a wall to protect your driveway by holding back soil that slides onto a driveway from a yard that is significantly higher than the driveway
  • building a garden wall around the side of the house where the front yard is higher in the back yard so that the wall may be only 15” high in front but becomes over 2’ in the back
  • building a wall to surround a walk-out basement
CKC Retaining Wall 150x150 Building a Wall Step 1: Structure

EP Henry Retaining Wall

Retaining walls fall into two categories:  gravity walls or engineered (reinforced) walls.  Engineered walls require multiple skilled professionals to be safely executed.  A professional hardscaping contractor should be hired to build this type of wall as he or she will have the capability to arrange the technical resources needed for projects of this scale.  Gravity walls can be safely built by anyone willing to take the time to learn how.  Retaining walls can be build from manufactured segmental retaining wall block, stacked natural stone or boulders, and other construction materials such as Gabion baskets; however, very high walls require a suitable segmental retaining wall product.

A huge range of manufactured products are available to construct retaining walls (also known as SRWs).  Not all products are suitable for all heights and all applications.  Examples of SRWs suitable for modest height gravity-based SRWs include EP Henry’s Terrace Wall and CST’s Versa-Lok Mosaic.  These products are at least 8” in depth and 6” in height and feature some locking mechanism Examples of SRW’s suitable for large scale gravity-based or engineered SRWs include:  Diamond Pro from EP Henry; Suprema from Techo-Bloc; and Versa-Lok from CST.

Sitting Walls are structures used to create a free-standing wall that can be used like a bench or for privacy.  Typical applications include:

  • Creating a sitting area on a patio or pool deck
  • Creating a boundary between two residences that are close together
  • Creating an outside perimeter on a raised patio to protect from falls
  • Creating an alternative to a railing on steps
Versa Lok Sitting Wall 150x150 Building a Wall Step 1: Structure

Sitting Wall Bordering Patio

Each sitting wall product has a maximum height which is usually between 24 and 36”.  Sitting wall products are the most expensive manufactured products due to the requirement for them to appear identical when viewed from either side.   Examples include: Mini Creta Plus from Techo-Bloc, Double-sided Coventry Wall from EP Henry, and Veranda from CST.

Please see separate articles (Building a Wall Step 3) on the construction of each of these wall types.